Xmas Holidays by Cosmo (The Ring of Kerry)

We were doing well at our mooring at Tullamore & mum was happy as she had access to shops & could cycle to the swimming pool. That was until disaster struck & mum fell off Falcon. Her back wheel went down a gap in tarmac & mum fell right near the boat. Luckily in one way as she hit the railings so didn’t go in the canal But she banged her back badly on the railings & her thigh hit the tarmac got a massive bruise. Her back was quite sore but dosed up on painkillers she was able to function although our lead pulling was apparently not helpful!

Unfortunately things started to go astray at this point. In the summer mum had booked a lovely coastguards cottage up near Belfast doggie friendly of course for over New Year. Once Xmas restrictions had been announced that they were being lifted we paid the balance & the security deposit. However, then the situation deteriorated in Northern Ireland so it was decided they were going into lockdown from Boxing Day which meant our holiday was no more. Mum then decided to book somewhere in southern Ireland instead as we were still allowed to travel. She struck upon the idea of going to Kerry so she could see the Ring of Kerry that she’d cycled around virtually & even maybe cycle a part of it. It’s not easy finding doggie friendly cottages that will take 2 dogs the limited number that take dogs often state one dog only. I suggested we leave Daquiri on the boat for the week but mum wasn’t impressed with that idea!

Anyway the situation was saved as mum found a lovely cottage right on the coast at Portmagee which actually took up to 4 dogs! Daquiri wanted his girlfriend Sophie to come but her mum was working over Xmas. Here’s our little well actually quite big cottage!

Pattys Portmagee

So a stupid van was hired & we were packed into it along with Falcon & lots of bags of food & bubble bath. We still don’t like going in those van things. And off we set on our 4 hour drive to Portmagee. We made it just before dusk which was a good job as it was quite remote so we found it ok in daylight.

It was really nice with all mod cons for mum microwave, washer, tumble dryer & even a dishwasher but of course she was most excited about the bath & was straight in there with a glass of wine! Marie had lit the fire for us for our arrival so we chilled out in front of that very cosy it was.

The next morning we set off up the lane on our first walkies to the Cliffs of Kerry which were literally 5 minutes from our cottage. Sadly they were closed which was shame especially as we were bundled into the stupid van instead.

Kerry Cliffs

First mum drove down to the village of Portmagee.

Portmagee is a little bit special. It’s often described as “a picturesque and sleepy little fishing village on the South Western most tip of the Iveragh peninsula, just off the Ring of Kerry. The village is located on the Iveragh peninsula south of Valentia Island, and is known locally as ‘the ferry‘, in reference to its purpose as a crossing point to the island. Access to Valentia Island is now via the Maurice O’Neill Memorial Bridge from Portmagee, which was built in 1970 and named in memory of a member of the IRA executed in 1942 for his part in the shooting dead of Detective George Mordaunt in Dublin. The name Portmagee (Port Magee and Magee’s Port as it was formerly known) comes from Captain Theobald Magee, a notorious 18th-century smuggler.

Portmagee was a key filming location for Star Wars: The Force Awakens and Star Wars: The Last Jedi in recent years. Star Wars fanatics have the option of sailing around the isolated island of Skellig Michael, on an organised boat trip from Portmagee. This rocky and uninhabited island is located 12 miles off the southwest of Co Kerry and where ‘The Force Awakens’ and ‘The Last Jedi’ were filmed. At certain times of the year, you can also dock at the Unesco World Heritage Site and visit the stone beehive-shaped huts, that were built as part of a monastery in the 6th century. These huts were also used in the filming of the last Jedi as the island is the location of the first Jedi temple in the film.

We drove across the bridge to Valentia Island & the first photo stop was Bray Head the most westerly point on the Island. The western part of the island is dominated by the barren, dramatic cliffs of Bray Head which command spectacular views of the Kerry coastline. It was a wet & windy day. The Island is approximately 11 kilometres (7 miles) long by almost 3 kilometres (2 miles) wide

We then continued up to Fogher Cliffs where we were released from our van prison for walkies yay

It was very high up & mum made us sit at the top for a photo good job there were railings there.

The we continued our climb up the Geokaun Mountains & we got another walkie this is turning into a rather good day. The highest mountain on Valentia Island and the sea cliffs of 600 feet (180 m) on its northern face. That’s Daquiri doing roly polys I’m being a good boy.

The scenery was stunning even us furpals could appreciate it. Although it is winter it’s quite nice to see the Island without any other tourists. We had all the stops to ourselves.

The weather now started to deteriorate so mum drove to the east of the island & had a quick stop at Knightstown.

Valentia was the eastern terminus of the first commercially viable transatlantic telegraph cable. The first attempt in 1857 to land a cable from Ballycarbery Strand on the mainland just east of Valentia Island ended in disappointment. After subsequent failures of cables landed at Knightstown in 1858 and Foilhommerum Bay in 1865, the vast endeavor finally resulted in commercially viable transatlantic telegraph communications from Foilhommerum Bay to Heart’s Content, Newfoundland in 1866. Transatlantic telegraph cables operated from Valentia Island for one hundred years, ending with Western Union International terminating its cable operations in 1966.

 A car ferry also departs from Reenard Point to Knightstown, the island’s main settlement, from April to October.

We continued our circuit of the island & stopped off at Valentia Lighthouse which of course was closed. Built on the site of a 17th century fort, Valentia Island Lighthouse at Cromwell Point has stood against sea and invader for hundreds of years.

We then returned back to our cosy cottage so we could snooze & mum was straight back in the bath!

Next day was deemed a chill out day but then disaster struck. It started with a fairly innocent event – Mum sneezed!!! Well whatever she had done to her back falling off the bike was just made a million times worse. She nearly shot through the ceiling with pain. She could barely move we were quite concerned for the future of our walkies. She spent the rest of the day dosed up on painkillers & in a pretty bad way.

That night she thought she was stuck in the bed it took her about 30mins to get up & the pain had got much worse. She managed to speak to Marie next door who very kindly went & got her stronger painkillers, voltarol & lent mum a heated back brace. Over the course of the next 3 days mum barely moved around. We missed our Xmas day dinner as mum wasn’t up to eating much but eventually the pain got a bit more manageable. poor mum we think she’s probably cracked a rib when she fell & the sneeze has either cracked it further or broken it. There’s not much you can do for ribs so its just rest & pain relief. It wasn’t the Xmas we’d planned that was for sure. We were taken on very short walkies or shuffles up the lane each day & we got shouted at a lot if we pulled on the lead!

On Boxing Day or St Stephens Day as it’s referred to here in Ireland mum thankfully managed to cook our Xmas dinner. It’s always dinner for three! There was trouble at the mill though as Daquiri finished his first & then tried to eat mine!!! Mum soon put him in his place cheeky monkey!

On 27th Dec mum decided she’d try to drive the van as our departure was looming & at this point we weren’t sure if she’d be able to. So we were loaded into the van prison & off we set. She did better than expected she was worried about using the gears as its her left hand side that’s hurt but she managed that Ok the only painful manoeuvre is the handbrake. As she was doing Ok she decided to drive the Skelling Ring.

The ring of Skellig is an extension of the famous Ring of Kerry (which is our ultimate goal) and is a real hidden gem – a small, 20 mile (app 32km) route .The Skellig Ring (or Ring of Skellig), detours west off the N70 just north of Waterville, and hooks back up to the Ring of Kerry just south of Caherciveen. It was a stunning drive & a real tonic for mum after her 3 days of confinement. Here’s a few of the amazing photos she took.

The next day we had a rest day as mum wanted to see how her back held up (& really she wanted to watch a few more episodes of Downton Abbey tucked up in front of our lovely warm fire!).

On our final day mum decided to go for it & drive the full Ring of Kerry. This had been her initial goal coming here. She had hoped to cycle a bit of it but that was definitely off the cards & Falcon never even made it out of the van! She had chosen well as for the main part it was a stunning day.

In essence, the Ring of Kerry is the ring road that follows the coastal contours of Kerry’s Iveragh Peninsula. The Ring of Kerry is one of Ireland’s most famous circuits and a popular holiday route to drive. Much more than a simple driving route, the Ring of Kerry is an iconic destination wrapped in a stunning visual history, with diverse wildlife scattered across Ireland’s lush green hills. The Ring of Kerry circuit measures 179km (111 miles) in length and the route takes around 3.5 hours to drive around without stopping.

Ring of Kerry

It is somewhere we’ll have to come back to as there’s many places we’d have liked to explore further on the route. We drove along the coastal section & passed through the very pretty colourful village of Sneem.

We then drove on the inland section through Killarney National Park which was equally as stunning as the coastal sections.

Passing through the busy town of Killarney with some very big posh hotels we came back round to Killorglin which then joined the route that we had initially come in on from Tullamore. We returned to the cottage with a happy mum that her goal had been achieved. We highly recommend the Ring of Kerry as a must do to anyone visiting Ireland & Pattys cottage in Portmagee is an ideal base.

The following day we had to pack up & head on the 4 hour drive home. We really didn’t want to go home but with new restrictions imminent we had to face reality. Although our Xmas has not quite been as planned we’re very glad we got away as the virus news was not good upon our return back.

We were all tired once back & the boat was absolutely freezing. We had an early night & we awoke to our first Irish snow so it was a good job we’d come back the day before. The country has now gone into full level 5 lockdown so shops are now closed & we’re not allowed 5km away from the boat. This of course means for the third time since we arrived in Ireland the waterways have closed. 2020 has certainly not been the year we planned but we’ve still had lots of fun moments & met lots of wonderful people. Check out our next blog for a photo review of 2020. It seems a long time ago since Golden Boyz was craned in at Sallins.

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