We did an early morning flit from Terryglass across the lake to Castle Harbour at Portumna so we could await a window of opportunity to head back up the River Shannon.
After a bit of waiting at the entrance we got moored on the back wall again. We really like it at Portumna as it has amazing walkies in the Forest & the shops nearby.
Of course mum had Falcon this time so she went off to explore more of the forest armed with a picnic. She was gone for hours as it was so large (& she got lost several times!)
There’s also the castle overlooking the harbour so some days we had walkies in the grounds there.
After about a week & a few dry days mum nervously decided to make a run for it upriver as if more rain came it’d be even harder to get off the lough. We initially just headed the short distance off the lake through the timed Portumna Bridge to Emerald Star for the night so mum could have a last night out with Fergal & Wendy. We were early so pulled up on the waiting jetty. We were cockahoop to be let off without leads only to discover we couldn’t get anywhere!
We had a very noisy neighbour on the opposite jetty Mr (or Mrs) Goat!!
Once through the bridge it was a left turn & we were soon moored up at Emerald Star hire base so mum could get diesel & pumpout before we return to the canal where it’s hard to get either. Mum went out the evening to the wonderful Ferry Inn for a farewell meal with Wendy & Fergal. Hopefully we’ll all catch up another time.
The next day the day mum had been dreading soon dawned. The River was still flowing reasonably fast so we were unsure how Golden Boyz would manage. But we have to make a break for it at some point so we set off on a misty Thursday morning with mum feeling very sick.
Mum was very relieved that the first section was actually fine although she had been warned it was above Meelick lock that the faster section was. As we approached the lock which was ready for us with a smaller boat already in it the flow picked up & came at us sideways but mum managed to steer us through without disgracing ourselves. We ascended the lock & had a chat with the lock keeper about if we were sensible to proceed. His description was the River was lively particularly at Maddens Island but we should be able to manage. Our plan B would have been to wait at Meelick until flow eased If it did – of course it could get worse. Mum decided just to get it over & done with. Plan C is also to go as far as Banagher & pull in before the bridge if the flow through there was bad. We headed onwards giving the huge Meelck weir a wide berth & an evil eye & our progress was noticeably slower but mum felt under control. At Maddens Island we slowed more so mum went for full factor warp speed as fast at Golden Boyz will go & we progressed forwards steadily with mums heart rate going at the same pace. Eventually the familiar sight of Banagher bridge came into sight.
The next challenge was getting through the arch as the flow is concentrated there but it was actually relatively easy. We passed the two hire companies including Carrickcraft where we spent our first few nights on the River Shannon – it seems so long ago now. After that progress really slowed. The GPS showed us as doing 1.2mph & we were almost at full revs but relieved to just be going in a forwards direction so pushed on as the canal entrance wasn’t too far. It was with huge relief we turned right back onto the Grand Canal.
We tied up on the waiting jetty below the lock for the night & celebrated mission accomplished. It had been on mums bucket list to do an Irish Lough. Obviously we hope to do them all in due course but this was our first experience of this type of cruising so a big achievement for us.
We have only done a small section of Irelands navigable waterways & will be working our way around the others over the next Few years we’re in Ireland. Who knows how many years we’ll be here we’re in no rush!
“There are a number of inland navigable waterways in Ireland.
Shannon System
Limerick to Killaloe
Lough Derg
Portumna to Athlone
Lough Ree
Lanesboro to Lough Key
Shannon Erne Waterway
Lough Erne
Lough Neagh
Royal Canal
Grand Canal
Barrow Navigation”
For now we’ve returned to the safety of The Grand Canal for winter & we’ll be working our way back along it over winter with maybe a little detour or two!
We had a brilliant time at Meelick Quay with some lovely sunny days where we could sit outside.
One night some very funny ducks came swimming by our boat. We wouldn’t stop barking at them so ended up being put inside hmph!
At the weekend mum decided it was time to brave the lough so we set off first for an encounter with our first big Shannon lock. We passed the Meelick Weir that Waterways Ireland are constructing a walkway across. Mum wants to come back once it’s finished & walk across it but you know what a wuss I am that doesn’t sound good at all!
Very soon we were at the big Victoria lock which was lock keeper operated. It was like the big automated locks we were used to up in South Yorkshire.
Once through were off along The Shannon. It was a truly beautiful cruising day.
On the way we passed 4 herons together. We’ve only seen them in isolation before. Must have been a heron party!
We continued down the Shannon arriving in good time for the 11am Portumna Bridge opening. The bridge opens about 6 times a day.
Just as we moored up on the waiting jetty Wendy called us to say Castle Harbour was really busy but they could squeeze us in at Emerald Star moorings just before the bridge. So without further ado we were moored up for the night. Wendy very kindly drove mum around to Castle Harbour & to Terryglass to suss our the moorings. Both were absolutely rammed with boats, people & motor homes. It was all impounded by the fact that the lockdown had just been eased so folks could use their boats & motorhomes & the fact that it was a gloriously hot Saturday so we probably saw it at its worst. But we certainly weren’t relishing the fact of mooring at either place. So Wendy had a plan B for us & arranged that we could go onto a friends jetty just through the bridge if needed.
That night we went round to Wendy & Fergals moorings for a drink & we had a brilliant time running round everywhere & meeting a new chick called Sophie. Daquiri fell in love with her & when she disappeared into the boat barked at her to come back out!
Mum & Wendy just drank lots of wine. Notice 2 dogs in the background fighting over a branch!! Fergal very kindly went through the charts with mum of what to expect on the lough.
The next day mum decided she was going to cruise round to Castle Harbour & if it was full she’d come back to the jetty. So we got in the boat queue for the 11am Bridge opening.
One we were through it was like wacky races with cruisers tearing past us racing to get out on the lough. It was very scarey for mum trying to keep course through their wake.
And before we realised it we were passing through the red & green markers called The Goalposts & we were on Lough Derg! It was quite choppy & very scarey. We were gripping on with our paws.
Mum needed to turn right after the goal posts towards Castle Harbour which was made more pressured by cruiser being right up her stern obviously also going right & trying to get past mum on the inside. Mum signalled to him that she was going right so he didn’t cut her up but he still stayed right behind her.
Map of entrance to Lough Derg & castle Harbour at Portumna.
We negotiated the markers & cruised with relief into the harbour,
Luckily there was a spot right at the entrance so we tied up there. In the Harbours most of the jetties will be way too short for us so we have to tie to harbour walls which are high to get out so a complete trauma for me!
Just after we tied up it started to rain so mum came in & sat down to calm her racing heart & have a cup of coffee before she tackled the challenge of getting me off the boat.
It is predominantly cruisers over here & some big historic barges but on the lough we’ve yet to see another narrowboat. The harbours seem to also be well set up for Motorhomes too with parking bays & electric & shower blocks.
So it came time for me to have a cockaleggie. Luckily the bank dipped a bit at the back so we attempted to get me off there. It wasn’t easy but I did it after making a lot of fuss. I then can get back in on the front. It was a relief to be off on the nice grassed area by the boat.
We certainly had a fantastic view of the lough from our mooring.
Portumna (meaning ‘the landing place of the oak’) is a market town in the south-east of County Galway, Ireland, on the border with and linked by a bridge to County Tipperary. This historic crossing point over the River Shannon between counties Tipperary and Galway has a long history of bridges and ferry crossings.
Mum went off exploring in the afternoon & left us snoozing. Firstyly she ca across Portumna Friary.Originally the Cistercian monks of Dunbrody Abbey in county Wexford possessed a small chapel here in the 13th century. It was dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul. Sometime later it was abandoned by the Cistercians and the land was held by the O’Madden family. The land was granted by the O’Maddens to the Dominicans Friars who founded the abbey here in 1426, and dedicated it to St Mary and SS Peter and Paul. It was converted for use as a Protestant church in the 18th century.
Next she came across Portumna Castle. The castle is currently closed but the gardens were open as was the cafe where mum had coffee & cake – she says it was medicinal after her shock of cruising on the lough for the first time.
Portumna castle was built in the Renaissance style already prevalent in Italy and France for over a century, but not commonly found in Ireland or England at that time. The Renaissance features of the exterior are, strictly speaking, limited to the doorcase of the front entrance and the Tuscan gateway of the innermost courtyard, but the layout is an expression of Renaissance ideas. The castle is symmetrical in shape and consists of three stories over a basement with square corner projecting towers. The castle measures 29.7m by 21.2m and the corner towers are 6.5m square with gunports. A central corridor, 3m wide, runs longitudinally from top to bottom, supported by stone walls, which contain numerous recesses and fireplaces.
The castle was abandoned as a home following a fire in 1826. The Office of Public Works has re-built the huge chimney stacks. The estate grounds contain walled gardens, gate lodges, gateposts and a yard.
We all had an early night after our adrenaline filled day. Mum kept studying the map in horror as she saw she’d only been a short distance onto the lake & that was terrifying enough. I think we may be leaving the lough quicker then we came on it!!
The next day we had a nice non boating day exploring the vast Portumna Forest Park which mum had been recommended was very good for walkies for us. We liked the sound of that.
Portumna Forest Park is adjacent to Portumna on the northern shore of Lough Derg. At Portumna Forest Park there are forest and lakeside walks, car park, toilet facilities and observation points. Perfect for walking, cycling, picnicing, bird watching and anything you think you can do in nature. There is a viewing tower along the nature trail where one can get a bird’s eye view of the forest, lake and lakeshore. Portumna Forest Park consists of a forest road, a long walk and a Nature Trail.
We went on very long walkies round it with several stops at the lake for drinkies. Daquiri got quite tired & mum came home with blisters but I loved it.
We’re liking this Portumna place now!
Another day we went to a different part & found the bird hide where you can try & spot the white tailed eagles. Mum wished she’d taken her binoculars.
We ended up staying a Portumna 6 days (naughty us you’re only allowed to stay 5 days) but the weather was pretty windy all week & mum definitely wanted to wait for a calm day before she could pluck on courage to go back on the lake again.
We were moved off the entrance onto the back wall by waterways Ireland but it was actually quite nice there.
Now back to the important subject of my disembarkation. The whole process is stressful for me & mum. Not for Daquiri who just steps onto the side of the cratch & then jumps off. I try & leap the whole lot in one go & often fail. Then one morning mum had a brilliant idea. Our settee isn’t really a settee its 2 chairs with only one arm on each with 2 footstools inbetween. You can’t tell cos its covered up with our blankets. I obviously have no problem getting on & off the settee. So mum moved one of the footstools into the cratch trying to get me to step onto those first. Of course I made a real meal of it. I got my front paws on but mum had to lift my bottom up then I could jump off. Anyway I’m pleased to report after a few days of practicising I am now getting off the boat all by myself using the footstool. Mum says if we get an even higher wall we can use both footstools as 2 steps but I say lets take it one footstool at a time. Not sure Daquiri is so impressed with our new seating arrangements though as only one of us can fit on a chair at a time if mum is sitting on one of the, Though of course mum could always sit on the floor!
So that’s planks & harbour walls I’ve mastered since getting over here. There’d better not be anything else!
Golden Boyz Narrowboat Blog 